Why Rhubarb Belongs in Every Backyard
Rhubarb is the ultimate lazy gardener's prize: a cold-hardy perennial that produces tangy crimson stalks for up to twenty years from a single planting. Unlike annual vegetables that demand seeding every spring, rhubarb crowns wake up, push out fist-sized leaves, and refill the harvest basket with almost no intervention beyond an occasional drink and a yearly mulch. If you have room for one extra plant, make it rhubarb—your future self will thank you when the first pie of the season costs nothing but flour, sugar, and a stroll to the patch.
Choosing the Right Crown or Start
Skip seed packets; rhubarb grown from seed produces variable plants, often bland or spindly. Buy one-year-old divisions called "crowns" from a reputable nursery. Look for named varieties such as 'Canada Red', 'Victoria', or 'Crimson Cherry'—these have been selected for thick, red stalks and lower oxalic acid. A healthy crown feels firm, shows no soft spots, and has at least two fat pink buds ("eyes") on top. Mail-order suppliers ship crowns bare-root in early spring; local garden centers pot them up for instant planting.
Best Climate and Timing
Rhubard needs at least two months below 40 °F to break dormancy and trigger spring growth; it thrives in USDA zones 3-7. Plant crowns as soon as soil can be worked—usually March in the North, February in mild-winter areas. Fall planting works where winters are reliably cold, but spring gives the roots a full season to establish before frost.
Site Selection: Permanent Bed, Permanent Payoff
Think of rhubarb as a small shrub. Pick a sunny corner with at least six hours of direct light; afternoon shade is acceptable in hot-summer regions. Because the plant will occupy the space for decades, avoid spots where you till or dig annually. Good air flow discourages fungal leaf spots, so leave three feet of clearance on all sides. Keep the patch clear of tree roots that compete for moisture and nutrients.
Soil Prep That Lasts a Lifetime
Rhubarb tolerates heavy clay but produces juicier stalks in deep, humus-rich loam. Dig one spade depth and two spade widths for each crown. Mix in two buckets of compost or aged manure plus a handful of balanced organic fertilizer (e.g., 5-5-5). Aim for a pH of 6.0-6.8; lime acidic soils the autumn before planting. Mound the center of the hole slightly so the crown sits high—buds must remain 1-2 inches below soil level, never deeper; burying crowns leads to rot.
Planting Step-by-Step
- Soak bare-root crowns in lukewarm water for one hour while you finish bed prep.
- Set the plant so buds face upward, roots fanned out evenly.
- Backfill with the improved soil, firming gently to remove air pockets.
- Water deeply until the top 6 inches are moist.
- Mulch with 3 inches of leaf mold or straw to suppress weeds and lock in moisture.
Space multiple plants 3 feet apart in rows 4 feet apart; mature clumps reach 5 feet across.
Watering and Feeding Routine
Keep soil evenly moist the first summer—about 1 inch of water per week. Established plants withstand short droughts but yield thicker stalks with consistent moisture. Side-dress each clump with a shovel of compost every spring when growth resumes; scratch it lightly into the surface and water in. Avoid high-nitrogen lawn fertilizers; they push leafy growth at the expense of stalk thickness.
Mulch, Weed, and Forget
Once the bed is mulched, maintenance drops to near zero. Replenish the organic layer annually so it never falls below 2 inches. Pull the occasional dandelion by hand; aggressive hoeing can slice the shallow rhizomes.
When and How to Harvest
Resist the urge the first year; let foliage feed the roots. In year two, harvest lightly—two to three stalks per plant—then stop by midsummer. From year three onward, grasp stalks at the base, twist sharply sideways, and pull; cutting with a knife leaves stubs that rot. Harvest only what you will use; stalks keep sweeter on the plant than in the fridge. Remove flower buds as they appear—seed stalks sap energy from leaf production.
Leaf Lore: Toxic but Useful
Rhubarb leaves contain soluble oxalates and should never be eaten. Toss them into the compost; the acids break down rapidly and do not harm the pile. Gardeners have long steeped the leaves in water to make a mild insect spray for aphids on roses, though results are anecdotal.
Dividing Crowns: Multiply Your Patch
Every six to eight years the center of a clump becomes woody and stalks thin out. Lift the entire plant in early spring before leaves emerge. Insert a sharp spade through the crown, ensuring each division has at least one large bud and a softball-sized hunk of roots. Replant immediately at the same depth, water, and mulch. One mature clump can yield four to five new plants—perfect for expanding the bed or gifting neighbors.
Forcing Rhubarb for Early Pink Stalks
Commercial growers in Yorkshire produce tender, champagne-pink stalks by denying plants light. Home gardeners can mimic the trick on a single clump. In late winter cover an established plant with a black plastic trash can weighted down with a brick. The temperature inside rises, coaxing the crown to sprout three weeks early. Check weekly; harvest pale stalks when they reach 8-12 inches. After forcing, give that plant a year off to rebuild strength.
Common Problems and Organic Fixes
Crown Rot
Symptoms: Mushy brown tissue at the base, foul odor, wilting leaves. Cause: waterlogged soil or planting too deep. Solution: dig up and discard affected parts; improve drainage with compost and coarse sand before replanting disease-free divisions.
Leaf Spot
Small red dots that enlarge to tan blotches. Mostly cosmetic. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and remove infected leaves to the compost. Severe cases warrant a copper soap spray approved for organic use.
Slugs
They rasp holes in young stalks. Set beer traps or boards overnight; dispose of morning refugees in soapy water. A ring of diatomaceous earth around the crown deters newcomers.
Winter Care in Cold Zones
After the first hard frost, leaves collapse. Rake away the mush to deny overwintering pests a hiding spot. Add a 4-inch layer of straw or shredded leaves over the crown once the ground freezes; this prevents frost-heave during midwinter thaws. Remove half the mulch in early spring to let soil warm.
Hot-Climate Hack: Growing as an Annual
Gardeners in zones 8-9 can treat rhubarb like a cool-season annual. Chill crowns in the refrigerator for six weeks, then pot in January. Harvest tender stalks before summer heat tops 85 °F; discard the exhausted plant come July. Repeat each year, or choose a heat-tolerant cultivar such as 'Glaskin's Perpetual' and site it in afternoon shade.
Best Culinary Varieties
- 'Canada Red': Deep crimson stalks, extra sweet, excellent for freezing.
- 'Valentine': Reliable red color even in warm springs; thick, few strings.
- 'Victoria': Green with red blush; classic pie flavor, heavy producer.
- 'Crimson Cherry': Thin skin, minimal fiber, ideal for jam.
Yield Expectations
A mature plant (four years old) produces 3-5 pounds of stalks each spring, enough for six pies or twelve jars of jam. Because stalks refrigerate for two weeks or freeze for a year, one plant satisfies most households.
Simple Propagation from Seedlings (Not Seeds)
If a friend offers a shovel-full of seedlings that sprouted near their compost, transplant them into a nursery bed. Grow on for one full season, then select the sturdiest, reddest-stemmed individuals for permanent placement. This method is hit-or-miss for color, but free.
Rhubarb in the Edible Landscape
The immense leaves add lush tropical texture to ornamental beds. Use a single clump as a backdrop for tulips or interplant with low herbs like thyme that thrive in the shade of the umbrella foliage. The crimson stalks double as garden color before any tomato ripens.
Companion Planting That Works
Garlic planted at the edge of the rhubarb row deters Japanese beetles. Strawberries enjoy similar soil and moisture; their runners fill gaps before rhubarb leafs out fully. Avoid planting near legumes—beans and peas may stunt rhubarb's uptake of calcium.
Storing and Preserving the Harvest
Refrigerate unwashed stalks in a loose plastic bag; they keep up to 14 days. For long storage, chop into 1-inch pieces, blanch 90 seconds in boiling water, cool in ice water, drain, and freeze on trays before bagging—no sugar needed. Dehydrated rhubarb chips make tangy snacks; dry at 135 °F until leathery.
Bottom Line
Plant one rhubarb crown this weekend and you will still be baking pies from the same clump when your toddlers become college graduates. Give it sunshine, compost, and a twice-a-season glance; rhubarb repays the favor with decades of tart, ruby harvests that store for months and elevate every dessert from mundane to memorable.