Understanding Exfoliating Acids: What Are AHAs and BHAs?
Exfoliating acids are staples in skincare routines worldwide, known for their ability to renew skin, unclog pores, and boost radiance. AHAs and BHAs are the two most popular types, but what exactly are they?
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are chemical exfoliants that dissolve dead skin cells, revealing fresher, smoother layers beneath. The key difference lies in their structure and how they work on the skin.
AHAs vs. BHAs: Key Differences
Both AHAs and BHAs exfoliate, but they target different skin concerns and have distinct properties.
- AHAs: These are water-soluble acids that work on the skin’s surface. They help with dryness, dullness, and fine lines by loosening dead skin cells.
- BHAs: These are oil-soluble acids that penetrate deeper into pores to clear out excess oil, sebum, and debris. They are ideal for acne-prone and oily skin.
Popular AHAs and Their Benefits
The most common AHAs in skincare include:
- Glycolic Acid (5-10%): Derived from sugar cane, this penetrates deeply to improve texture and fade dark spots.
- Lactic Acid (5-12%): Gentle and hydrating, it’s great for sensitive skin and brightening.
- Mandelic Acid (5-10%): A milder option that reduces hyperpigmentation and acne.
Popular BHAs and Their Benefits
The most widely used BHA is salicylic acid, known for its ability to deeply cleanse pores and combat acne.
- Salicylic Acid (0.5-2%): dissolve oil-clogging pores, making it perfect for acne and congested skin.
- Betaine Salicylate: A milder alternative to salicylic acid, often found in cleansers for sensitive skin.
How to Choose Between AHAs and BHAs
Selecting the right exfoliating acid depends on your skin type and concerns.
- Dry or Mature Skin: Opt for AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid to hydrate and smooth.
- Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: BHAs like salicylic acid are best for preventing breakouts.
- Combination Skin: Can benefit from both, alternating or using products that combine them.
- Sensitive Skin: Try gentler options like lactic acid or mandelic acid.
How to Incorporate AHAs and BHAs Into Your Routine
Exfoliating acids should be used carefully to avoid irritation.
- Start Slowly: Begin with a low concentration (5% or less) and use 1-2 times a week.
- Morning or Night: BHAs are stable in sunlight, while AHAs should be applied at night due to sun sensitivity.
- Follow with Moisturizer and Sunscreen: Always use SPF during the day when using AHAs or BHAs.
PIH, Redness, and Irritation: Managing Side Effects
Exfoliating acids can sometimes cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), redness, or irritation, especially for those with darker skin tones or sensitive skin types.
- Start Slowly and Patch Test: Introduce new acids gradually to assess tolerance.
- Use Soothing Ingredients: Combine with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, or aloe vera to calm skin.
- Avoid Mixing with Other Actives: Don’t pair with retinoids, vitamin C, or other potent ingredients at the same time.
DIY Exfoliating Acid Alternatives
Natural options like lemon juice (AHA-like) or willow bark extract (BHA-like) can exfoliate, but they come with risks.
- Proceed with Caution: These can be unpredictable and may cause irritation or uneven exfoliation. Always dilute and patch test.
- Consult a Dermatologist: If unsure, seek professional advice before experimenting with homemade solutions.
The Bottom Line on AHAs and BHAs
Exfoliating acids are powerful tools in skincare, but using them correctly is key to seeing results without irritation. Whether you choose AHAs for radiance or BHAs for clarity, consistency and proper application will help you achieve healthier, glowing skin.
Disclaimer
This article was generated by a journalist using reputable skincare research and was written for general informational purposes only. Always consult a dermatologist before making significant changes to your skincare routine.